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Christmas Pudding December 7, 2012

Christmas pudding

Traditionally Christmas puddings were always made on Stir-up Sunday; which is the last Sunday before Advent. All the family took a turn to stir the pudding and make a secret wish whilst they stirred. The pudding was always stirred from East to West to represent the journey that the three wise men who visited baby Jesus made.

In my family a silver sixpence coin was put into the mixture for one lucky family member to find. Now-a-days you might want to wrap it in greaseproof paper and warn everyone there is a coin hidden. A sixpence is a British coin about the size of a dime. It was made of silver and was believed to bring health and wealth to the lucky finder. You just needed to watch your teeth as an undetected six pence could cause a lot of dental problems. I remember as a kid not liking Christmas pudding but always having a slice being hopeful of winning a silver sixpence.

Ingredients

  • 350g/12¼oz sultanas
  • 350g/12¼oz raisins or currants
  • 150g/5¼oz dried figs, chopped
  • 125g/4½oz candied peel
  • 100g/3½oz dried apricots
  • 75g/2½oz dark glace cherries, halved
  • 150ml/5fl oz brandy
  • 100g/3½oz ginger in syrup, chopped, plus 2 tbsp of the syrup
  • 2 apples or quinces, grate
  • 2 oranges, juice and zest
  • 6 eggs, beaten
  • 250g/8¾oz shredded suet
  • 350g/12¼oz soft dark sugar
  • 250g/8¾oz fresh breadcrumbs
  • 175g/6¼oz self-rising flour
  • 1 tsp mixed spice
  • 2 old sixpences or coins wrapped in foil

Preparation method

For this recipe you will need two 1.5 litre(2½ pint) plastic pudding basins with lids.

Soak the sultanas, raisins, currants, figs, peel, apricots and cherries in the brandy overnight, giving it a good stir now and again.

The following day, in a large bowl mix the ginger, syrup, apples or quinces, orange juice and zest with the eggs, suet, sugar, crumbs and flour.

Stir in the soaked fruit and spice.

Butter the two pudding basins and divide the mix between them. Add coins now if using.

Cut two circles of greaseproof paper to cover the top of the pudding and fold a pleat down the center to allow pudding to expand.

Put lids on the basins and steam puddings for 3½ hours.

Let puddings cool before removing greaseproof paper and covering tightly with cling film and lid. The puddings can now be stored in a cool, dry place until Christmas.

To reheat, steam pudding for a further 3½ hours, turn out and flame with brandy.

 

Great British Christmas cake. December 3, 2012

Filed under: Holiday — steamboatcarpetsplus @ 11:03 pm

 

Great British Christmas cake:

Last Christmas we were lucky enough to have some great Australian friends come and stay with us; Jan and Peter Dunleavy. Jan even made us a traditional British (and Australian) Christmas cake. This cake traveled many miles on Jan’s lap and I must say it was well worth all the loving care she put into it.

This year we are not sure they will be able to spend Christmas day with us so I guess I have to start making my own traditional Christmas cake. So now is the time to start.

A good Christmas cake is about great ingredients. It is a heavy fruit cake with royal icing and marzipan. This is the best recipe I can find to replace the wonderful cake Jan supplied last year. I hope it has as much love and care in it that Jan put in last year. Also, did I mention my younger sister is a trained chef and my grandparents had a successful bakery….. No pressure!

 

Ingredients

  • 225g/8oz plain flour
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • ½ tsp Mixed spice
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • 200g/7oz butter
  • 200g/7oz dark brown sugar
  • 2 tbsp black treacle
  • 1 tbsp marmalade
  • ¼ tsp vanilla essence
  • 4 free-range eggs, lightly beaten
  • 800g/1¾lb mixed dried fruits
  • 100g/3½oz chopped mixed peel
  • 150g/5oz glace cherries, halved
  • 100g/3½oz blanched almonds, chopped
  • brandy

To decorate

  • 200g/7oz marzipan
  • 1-2 tbsp apricot jam, warmed
  • royal icing
  • 3 egg whites
  • 600g/1lb 5oz powdered icing sugar, sieved
  • 1½ tsp liquid glycerine – optional
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice

Preparation method

  1. Heat the oven to 150C/300F/Gas2. Grease a 20cm/8inch round or an 18cm/7inch square cake tin and line the bottom and sides with baking parchment.
  2. Sieve the flour, salt, mixed spice and cinnamon into a bowl.
  3. Cream the butter and the sugar in a large mixing bowl and then mix in the sugar, treacle, marmalade and vanilla essence until light and fluffy.
  4. Mix the eggs a little at a time into the mixture adding a tablespoon of flour mixture with the last amount.
  5. Fold in the remaining flour mixture until well mixed and then mix in the dried fruit, mixed peel, glace cherries and the almonds.
  6. Turn the mixture into the prepared tin and make a slight hollow in the centre.
  7. Bake in the oven for 3 hours and then test with a skewer. If not ready bake for up to another hour testing every 20 minutes until the skewer comes out clean.
  8. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin for 15 minutes.
  9. Turn out on to a wire rack and leave to cool.
  10. Once cool, make a few holes in the cake with a skewer and pour over 3-4 tbsp of brandy. Let the brandy soak into the cake.
  11. Store the cake wrapped in foil and in an airtight tin or plastic container, holes side up.
  12. OPTIONAL: For a rich and moist cake, spoon over a few tablespoons of brandy every week until you are ready to ice and decorate your cake.
  13. To decorate the cake, place the cake on a foil board or cake plate.
  14. Dust your hands and the work surface with a little icing sugar and knead the marzipan until soft.
  15. Roll out half the marzipan to fit the top of the cake and roll out the rest in strips to fit around the sides of the cake.
  16. Brush the cake all over with the warmed apricot jam and then place the marzipan on top and around the cake.
  17. Cover the cake with a clean tea towel and then leave in a cool place for at least one day.
  18. To make the icing, lightly whisk the egg whites adding the sugar at intervals. Beat well until the icing reaches soft peaks. Add the glycerine if using and the lemon juice.
  19. Spread icing all over cake either flat iced using a clean ruler or by forming soft peaks. Decorate with Christmas ornaments.

 

Stay tuned!

 

If you are planning for a traditional English Christmas meal start early November 28, 2012

Filed under: Holiday — steamboatcarpetsplus @ 11:37 pm

If you are planning for a traditional English Christmas meal, start early!

I have been really fortunate over the years. We moved to Steamboat Springs in 1991 and although we miss many English foods and traditions we have been able to bribe our English and Australian family and friends to bring some English treats in exchange for a great Steamboat Springs vacation.  We have had friend bring traditional decorations to Christmas cake, pudding and other food items we miss such as Cadbury’s chocolate.

If you don’t have great British friends, you should start preparing some items as far back as September. So, although we are a little late, we should start right now.

Sloe gin is the first thing you should do for a typical English Christmas. Really it should have been started in September/October  but it’s never too late.

Ingredients:

350g/ 12oz sloes

175/ 6oz caster/ refined sugar

700ml/ 1 ½ pints gin

Rinse the sloes thoroughly and remove the stalks. Prick them with a cocktail stick. Pack the sloes into a sterilized jamming jar, sprinkle each layer with sugar. Pour in the gin and seal the jar. Store the mixture in a cool dark place shaking occasionally until Christmas. Strain the gin in a bottle and serve as a pre-Christmas dinner drink.

The next Christmas treat to plan will be Christmas cake. Check back for our next blog with all the information you need to make a wonderful English Christmas Cake!

 

Thanksgiving November 19, 2012

Filed under: Holiday — steamboatcarpetsplus @ 12:00 pm

Have you ever stopped and thought about what is the “Thanksgiving holiday”?  Thanksgiving was pronounced a holiday by Abraham Lincoln in 1863 and is celebrated every November. It was to celebrate the first shared harvest festival between the Plymouth colonists and the Wampanoag Indians back in 1621.  Thanksgiving is an American holiday, however many countries celebrate similar holidays. In my home country, England, we celebrate “Harvest festival”. Like the American “Thanksgiving” it is a celebration in thanks for the year’s harvest. In modern times it is all about family, being thankful for what we have and enjoying a good family meal.

The American meal tends to be based around a turkey, the meat that pilgrims brought to the US. In the UK it is more based around vegetable the crops bought in from the fields. In both countries it is about family and friends and being thankful for what you have.

This year I will be having a great “Thanksgiving” holiday, I will be spending the first part of November in England with my family and returning to the USA on November 21st to catch the American “Thanksgiving” celebrations. The best part is Christmas is just around the corner and turkey is the main dish for a UK Christmas dinner;  we buy and freeze a great turkey that is always on sale before Thanksgiving . So maybe you should check into some of my next blogs and have a great “English traditional Christmas” at a low budget if you plan your Christmas dinner in November….(buy extra turkeys!)

 

Yorkshire Pudding – A holiday tradition November 9, 2012

Yorkshire puddings are not really a pudding at all. It’s a savory dish served with the English traditional Sunday roast dinner. It is a pancake mixture of flour, eggs, and milk with a pinch of salt to season. The trick in Steamboat Springs is how to make them rise at altitude. It’s a trick that I have mastered on some days but once in a while it all goes wrong. Yorkshire puddings are something we English find important enough to talk internationally about, we talk about over the phone with our English family and even send silly pictures just to show off!

This is not the best picture, but the Yorkshire puddings were not bad. Last year we had my son, Mark’s ski team from CU staying with us. That was my opportunity to cook the English traditional Sunday roast and serve Yorkshire puddings. They were a great hit with the team and especially the coach Paul who must have eaten nine Yorkshire puddings before he left the table.

Here is my recipe if you want to try them and maybe make them a Holiday tradition of your own:

225g plain flour approx. 1 cup

½ tsp salt

4 eggs beaten

300 ml milk approx. 1.25 cups

About 4 tbsp vegetable oil for cooking

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl or jug. Add the eggs and half the milk and beat until smooth. Mix in the remaining milk and leave the batter to rest for at least 1hr.

20 mins before the beef is done you need to cook the Yorkshires

Heat the oven to 385 deg. Put approx. 1 tsp of oil into each compartment of a muffin tin. When the oil is up to temperature fill the muffin compartments almost to the top with the batter mixture. Place the muffin tin on top of a drip tray and place in the oven for 20 – 22 mins. until the Yorkshire puddings are well risen, golden brown and crisp.

Tips:

  • I guess my quantities and never weigh them so measurements are approx. so you many need to adjust the consistency of your mixture. The batter should be fairly runny.
  • Do not open the oven door until they are cooked as they will collapse.
 

Home for the Holidays November 2, 2012

Filed under: Holiday — steamboatcarpetsplus @ 10:50 pm

 Image

So call me old fashioned, but there is nothing I like more than being “home for the holidays”. Over the years, I have had to define where “home” is. As our friends, neighbors and most of our customers know that Martin and I are from England. So, “home” for many years was England. I miss England and my family there; however, “home” is now Steamboat Springs. I have two grown up sons, both in college, one a senior and one a sophomore. So, for me, the holidays are about looking forward to having my family and friends around. I love having them at home by the fire in Steamboat Springs, Colorado.

There are many holiday traditions that Martin and I have brought with us from England. Now, we would like to share these traditions with our Steamboat friends. Stay tuned and I will share with you some of our best traditions. Maybe, after hearing our story,  will start some new traditions of your own.

 

Sound reduction underlayments August 7, 2012

Filed under: Natural Stone,Wood Flooring — steamboatcarpetsplus @ 9:44 pm
Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Sound reduction underlayments

Quiet Please    

Keeping your home quiet can be a challenge.

Sound transfer between rooms, floors and condos can be a problem especially if you have noisy neighbors and if they have hard surface floors. Ceramic tile is probably the worst offender when it comes to transferring sound to neighbors below. Whilst nothing in the floor industry is proof anything, there are several different underlayment’s that can help reduce the transmittal of sound.

The IBC, “International Building Code” has two methods of testing sound. The IIC, “Impact Insulation Class” tests the ability to block impact sounds i.e. footsteps and objects dropped on the floor. The STC, “Sound Transmission Class” tests the ability to reduce airborne sounds such as voices, stereo systems and T.V’s. The results of the test are combined to create a number; the higher the number the better the resistance to sound. Ratings of 50 or above will satisfy the minimum requirements of the International Building code. The test evaluates the sound transfer over various combinations of building materials within the floor/ceiling assemblies and not just testing the flooring or underlayment. By using a good underlayment you are adding to the resistance of sound transmittal. See the following table for a general idea of what the IIC and STC rating numbers mean.

IIC/STC lab FSTC field
26-30 20-22 Most sentences clearly understood
30-35 25-27 Many phrases and some sentences understood without straining to hear
35-40 30-3 Individual words and occasional phrases clearly heard and understood
42-45 35-37 Medium loud speech clearly audible, occasional words understood
47-50 40-42 Loud speech audible, music clearly heard
52-55 45-47 Loud speech audible by staining to hear, music normally can be head and may be disturbing
57-60 50-52 Loud speech essentially inaudible; music can be heard faintly but bass notes disturbing
62-65 55-60 Music heard faintly, bass notes “thump”; power woodworking equipment clearly audible
70- 60 Music still heard faintly if played very loud
75+ 65+ Effectively blocks most airborne noise sources

IIC-STC 50 is the International Building code.

Concrete slab ICC Required underlayment rating for minimum IBC code of 50
6” concrete slab 27 23
8” concrete slab 32 16

Rubber underlayment

Solid rubber is without a doubt the most resilient underlayment available. In fact, 2mm of rubber underlayment is equal to 6mm of the common underlayment cork. Rubber underlayment can be used with most all wood flooring installations, including glued down, nailed down and stapled down. It is also specified for use beneath ceramic tile, cork floors, carpets and a variety of resilient sheet and tile floors. As is the case with acoustic cork, whenever you are installing flooring by a method other than free-floating, the underlayment must be attached to the sub-floor as opposed to simply laying it down.

Rubber underlayment is specifically designed to increase the IIC rating and STC rating of a floor to meet or exceed building code requirements. The most common rubber underlayment thickness installed is 5 MM (1/4″). Rubber underlayment performs best when installed between two rigid surfaces. The sub-floor will act as one rigid surface and the finish flooring acting as the second rigid surface, whether it is tile, hardwood, laminate, or particle board with vinyl, will create a sandwich of materials with a flexible core. Rubber underlayment will always perform best installed over concrete, but whether the sub-floor is concrete or wood the STC rating will easily reach the high 40’s STC range.

Using Cork Underlayment

Acoustic Cork: Cork materials, unless incredibly thick (1″ +), will not significantly improve the IIC rating of a floor. Cork has been tested to perform only about a third as well as rubber underlayment of the same thickness. It has remained a popular product largely because of the cheap price tag and partly because of the implied environmentally friendly aspect. Saving a couple hundred dollars on a small project does not really add up to true savings if the product purchased does not actually work.

Carpet with Carpet Pad

A carpeted environment is quiet because the pile surface absorbs surface noise at the source. On a concrete floor with no cushion, a carpet registered an impact noise rating of +14. The same carpet with separate cushion had an impact noise rating of +25—again significant improvement. Carpet cushion can reduce the impact exerted on floor covering by one-half.

This amounts to a smiley face.                     

Underlayment available through Carpets Plus Carpet Tile Wood Laminate IIC Rating, over standard floor/ceiling construction
Healthy Choice pad

*

No data

8lb 3/8 rebond

*

No data

8lb 7/16 rebond

*

No data

Rubber pad

*

No data

Interlock

*

62-70

Tredmor

*

71-73

Easymat

*

*

71-73

Cork 6mm

*

*

53-65

Sound Vapor Block

*

71

 

Hardwood Species for Beautiful Flooring July 10, 2012

Hardwood Species

Hardwood floors have been prized for centuries for their beauty and wear-ability. Traditionally, they represent wealth, taste and style, with each grain pattern and texture bringing a unique masterpiece of natural splendor to the indoors. Each species of hardwood has distinct patterns, colors and properties. A better understanding of hardwood species is a key step in helping you identify the hardwood flooring that is right for you.

 

 

Alder

Alder is a very light brown wood with a yellow or pink tinge with a fine grain and smooth texture. It is one of the fastest growing hardwoods, fully maturing in just 10 – 15 years, making it a sustainable, eco-friendly material. Due to its light color and ability to absorb stain well, alder can be stained to resemble almost any kind of wood, creating an expensive look at a fraction of the cost. Alder measures 590 on the Janka Hardness scale. It is among the softer hardwoods available for flooring. Alder is a popular choice for “shabby chic” décor.

 

 

 Ash

White – Ash trees belong to the olive family but do not produce edible fruit. Its color ranges from a lustrous white to a rich cream or very pale tan. A popular choice in flooring, white ash has a distinct grain resembling oak with twisted, interwoven burl patterning. A Janka Hardness scale rating of 1320 gives ash a very good overall strength, excellent shock resistance and good tensile strength for a long-lasting floor that can withstand a lot of traffic.

 

 

 

Beech-

Beech is a species with great color variation from reddish brown heartwood to creamy white sapwood, presented in distinctive streaks and whorls throughout the wood. It has a tight grain and a smooth, uniform texture. A Janka Hardness scale rating of 1300 indicates durability and strength.

 

 

Birch-

There are many species of birch, each with its own color variations. Yellow birch is most commonly used for flooring. Yellow birch coloring ranges from a cream or light brown sapwood to a light brown or reddish heartwood, causing noticeable but not dramatic color variation. It is tightly grained with straight, curly or wavy patterns. It can be stained with a convincing mahogany or walnut finish. Birch measures 1260 on the Janka Hardness scale, just slighter softer than red oak which measures 1290.

 

 

Bubinga-

Bubinga is a striking wood grown in Africa with a deep, rich reddish color variegated with darker streaks and grain patterns. The grain is fine and well-defined for a beautiful rustic appearance. Bubinga rates 2690 on the Janka Hardness scale, an exceptionally hard and durable material for a floor that will last for generations and stand up to heavy traffic.

 

 

 

Cherry (American)-

American (aka Black) – Cherry, sometimes called fruitwood, is grown in the eastern United States. The wood is a light to medium reddish –brown with a tight, often wavy grain and a satiny, lustrous finish. The Janka Hardness scale rating of American cherry is 950, making this one of the softest hardwoods; however, its dimensional stability is 7.1, above average.

 

 

 

Cherry (Brazilian)-

Brazilian (aka Jatoba) – Brazilian cherry is a medium hued reddish wood with darker streaks and a course grain texture. Rated 2820 on the Janka Hardness scale, Brazilian cherry is an exceptionally hard and durable flooring material that will last for generations and stand up to heavy traffic. Although Jatoba is sometimes referred to as Brazilian Cherry or South American Cherry, it is not a cherry tree but a legume belonging to the Fabaceae family.

 

 

 

Cypress

Australian – Australian Cypress is similar to pine in appearance; a honey gold wood with light cream sapwood and wavy dark brown streaks and knots offering a lot of patterning and contrast, ideal for creating a rustic look. Rated 1375 on the Janka Hardness scale, it has excellent durability and dimensional stability.

 

 

 

Hickory-

Hickory ranges in color from the medium tan or a light reddish brown of the heartwood to the creamy white of the sapwood. The closed grain is figured with fine straight or wavy lines and the unfinished wood is rough to the touch. Hickory wood is often considered interchangeable with pecan wood (a type of hickory) by suppliers. Hickory has an above-average Janka Hardness scale rating of 1820.

 

 

 

Kempas-

Heartwood ranges in color from orange red to reddish brown without much contrast or grain definition. Sapwood is pale yellow to white with a high luster and an interlocked or spiral grain. It has a coarse texture and a Janka Hardness scale rating of 1710, but a low stability rating.

 

 

 

Mahogany (Asian)-

Asian (aka Keruing) – Keruing is a general name assigned to wood from more than 70 different species of Dipterocarpus native to Southeast Asia whose wood is nearly indistinguishable. Color varies from pinkish-brown to dark brown without significant contrast. The texture is coarse and the grain shallowly interlocked or straight. It rates 1270 on the Janka Hardness scale, making it similar in hardness to red oak.

 

 

 

Mahogany (Santos)-

Santos – Santos Mahogany is a hardwood indigenous to the tropical forests of South America. The color is a rich dark reddish brown with darker striations and fine, oily texture. Grain is straight or wavy and contrast coloring is low but pronounced. It rates high on the Janka Hardness scale at 2200, indicating excellent durability and strength.

 

 

 

Maple

Hard (aka Sugar) – Hard Maple, also known as sugar maple, is common to North America and wood ranges in color from creamy white to light reddish brown through both heartwood and sapwood. The wood shows medium figuring of the grain with rare occurrences of quilted, fiddleback, or bird’s-eye detailing, which is usually sold at a premium. Hard Maple rates above average on the Janka Hardness scale at 1450.

 

 

 

Merbau-

Merbau is a hardwood indigenous to Indonesia, Malaysia, and Papua New Guinea. The wood is highly prized for its rich, lustrous brown or dark reddish brown color that is sometimes sprinkled with flecks of pale gold. The grain pattern can be interlocked, wavy, or straight. Merbau is a structurally stable wood with a rating of 1925 on the Janka Hardness scale, making it an exceptionally hard and durable surface.

 

 

 

Mesquite-

Mesquite is a deciduous tree found in north Mexico and across the southwest and Midwestern United States. Wood color ranges from light brown to dark reddish brown with ingrown mineral streaks. Color variations are tonally moderate, but visually distinctive. Mesquite is a very durable wood with a rating of 2345 on the Janka Hardness scale.

 

 

 

Oak (Red)-

Red Oak is a general term used for more than 200 subspecies common to North America, differentiated by color variation. There is little difference in color between sapwood and heartwood. The wood is light in color and reddish in tone. The grain is open and coarse with a tight grain pattern. Quarter sawn lumber can have a flake pattern, also known as butterflies of tiger rays. Northern Red Oak scores a 1290 on the Janka hardness scale and is the benchmark average rating. Southern red oak is slightly softer, scoring 1060 on the Janka scale.

 

 

 

Oak (White)-

White oak heartwood is pale brown in color and may have a pinkish or slightly silver/gray cast. Sapwood is light cream to white with low color variation. The grain is open with rays longer than that found in red oak with occasional swirls, burls and tight knots. White oak is slightly softer than the median and rates 1210 on the Janka hardness scale.

 

 

 

Padauk-

Padauk is considered an exotic hardwood indigenous to Central and West Africa. The heartwood is a dark, rich reddish or purplish brown or black with little variation in color. The grain is straight or interlocked and the texture is coarse. Padauk rates 1725 on the Janka hardness scale and is exceptionally strong and stable.

 

 

 

Pecan-

Pecan wood ranges in color from the reddish brown with dark brown streaks of the heartwood to the creamy pinkish white of the sapwood. The grain is open with straight, wavy or irregular lines. Hickory wood is often considered interchangeable with pecan wood (a type of hickory) by suppliers. Pecan has an above-average Janka Hardness scale rating of 1820.

 

 

 

Pine (aka Southern Yellow)-

Southern Yellow Pine is the wood from several evergreen species common to the southern regions of the United States. The heartwood is light yellow to yellowish brown and can have an orange cast. Sapwood is yellowish white to pale tan. The closed grain has prominent and distinctive figuring patterns and knots are common. It is softer than the median on the Janka hardness scale, falling between 690 and 870 depending on species.

 

 

 

Pine (Heart)-

The term heart pine is usually used to describe wood that has been reclaimed and recycled from old buildings. Its color is warm reddish brown with pale yellow sapwood and some black sap staining. Heart pine is a dense wood with a high degree of figuring. The grain pattern is usually either swirled or straight lines close together like pinstripes depending on the method used to saw. Heart pine rates a median value of 1225 on the Janka hardness scale, but dimensional stability can vary with the species, age and prior usage of the wood.

 

 

 

Sapele-

Sapele is an exotic hardwood similar in many ways to mahogany. It is indigenous to Africa. The wood is a dark, rich, reddish brown with a fine, interlocked grain. With an above average Janka rating of 1500 and exceptional dimensional stability, Sapele offers more durability than a true mahogany and compares to oak in strength and wear.

 

 

 

Tea– Brazilian (aka Cumaru)

Indigenous to South America, Brazilian teak is one of the hardest wood species in the world. It is a fairly uniform light to medium brown and may have a yellow cast. The grain is fine and interlocked, and the wood feels waxy or oily to the touch. Brazilian teak rates 3540 on the Janka hardness scale and has above average dimensional stability, making it an extremely durable and long-lasting flooring material.

 

 

 

Teak– True

True teak is native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia and is grown in Central America and parts of South America. Color range is a medium golden brown with streaks of darker brown. The grain may be wavy or straight, and the texture of the wood is coarse and oily with a dull luster. True teak measures 1000 – 1155, relatively low on the Janka hardness scale, making it a softer wood than most hardwoods.

 

 

 

Tigerwood

 

Tigerwood grows naturally in the in the neotropical forests of Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Guatemala and Mexico. Color ranges from a pale cream to a rich reddish-orange hue in the dramatic streaking pattern that gives the wood its name. Tigerwood has an irregular grain that may be mottled, wavy or interlocked and a fine texture with a medium to dull luster. Tigerwood measures 1850 on the Janka hardness scale and is a heavy, stable flooring material.

 

 

 

Walnut– American Black

American black walnut is indigenous and common to North America. Wood color ranges from rich dark brown to black with a purple cast. There is a dramatic difference between the heartwood and the white to light tan sapwood. Flooring manufacturers often darken the sapwood by bleeding the heartwood color into the sapwood by steaming the wood. The grain is open and straight, and can have curly or burled figure. American black walnut has a Janka hardness rating of 1010, softer than red oak.

 

 

 

Walnut– Brazilian (aka Ipe)

Brazilian walnut is indigenous to South America. Color is a medium to very dark brownish black with little variation. The grain is fine to medium, straight, wavy or irregular. Wood is heavy, solid and oily, and the Janka scale rating is 3680 with above average stability, making Ipe (pronounced “e-pay”) the hardest and most durable wood available.

 

 

 

Wenge

Wenge is lumber from the Millettialaurentii tree, indigenous to Africa. The color is a rich dark brown with thick striping in almost black. Sapwood is dramatically different from the heartwood in pale yellowish white. The grain is straight and the texture coarse and oily. Wenge rates above average on the Janka hardness scale at 1630 and has excellent dimensional stability.

 

 

Harwood or Laminate? July 5, 2012

Hardwood or Laminate?

If you want the look of hardwood but don’t have the budget, a laminate floor may be what you are looking for. Laminate flooring is durable, scratch, stain and fade resistant, easy to clean, hypoallergenic. Laminate is also perfect for households with pets and children and costs less than solid hardwood flooring. There are all kinds of laminates, not only with different looks, but also different plank widths and colors that are built to withstand different degrees of traffic. Laminates can resemble stone or ceramic tile but are best known as substitutes for wood floors. Best of all, the innovations in laminate keep on coming; new and better locking systems, embossing, new finishes and more.

Laminate wood floors are extremely versatile flooring products. A laminate floor installation can be done in almost every room of your home, above or below ground, over wood or concrete. Most of the floor manufacturers market their laminate floors as an ‘install anywhere’ product. However, you should not install laminates in bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchens, saunas, enclosed porches, verandas or anywhere that may require wet mopping.

Laminate is constructed of four layers:

  1. The back is reinforced with melamine for structural stability and moisture resistance.
  2. The core board is strong, stable, and moisture-resistant. It is made of high density fiberboard or sometimes medium density fiberboard. This core, which supports the weight and stress of foot traffic, will affect how sturdy and stable your floor will be.
  3. The decorative layer provides the floor’s beauty. The decorative layer is actually a highly detailed photograph that gives the laminate the appearance of wood or tile.
  4. The top layer is a melamine tough wear layer. This layer has a clear finish, reinforced with aluminum oxide, which is one of the hardest mineral compounds known to man. The aluminum oxide treatment is also used to resist staining, fading, surface moisture and wear.

 

The locking system is the way the laminate boards will click together to form your floor. It is hallmark of laminate flooring is to come with glue-free, click joints or locking systems that are easy to assemble. That’s why installing laminate floors has become something many people can do themselves. You virtually never need to glue a laminate floor to a sub-floor, nor build a level sub-floor first, like you would have to do with a solid hardwood installation.

Laminate flooring offers residential products with 15-year, 20-year, and 25-year warranties for products used in dry, interior residential applications.

Call Carpets Plus of Steamboat Springs (970) 870-8036 or visit our website: http://steamboatcarpetsplus.com/ to learn more about all of your flooring options!

 

 

Engineered or Solid Hardwood? June 27, 2012

Filed under: Wood Flooring — steamboatcarpetsplus @ 10:17 pm
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Engineered or Solid Hardwood?

Hardwood flooring is one of the few choices that will actually raise the value of your home and help it sell. Since hardwood floors are well known for retaining beauty, structural integrity and character for decades, they can be a powerfully persuasive selling point. The elegance and warmth of hardwood never goes out of style or wavers in its appeal. Whether you plan to keep your home for generations or sell it at a premium, hardwood flooring is always a good investment.

Solid wood is milled from a real hardwood species, making it the sole material used in the making of the flooring and lasts generations. Solid wood generally expands and contracts a lot more than engineered wood during climatic changes, especially extremes in heat and cold and rainy season. It’s resistance to moisture and heat is therefore unsuitable for applications in areas which are not environmentally controlled, damp areas such as below-grade installations and over radiant heat.

The standard thickness for solid hardwood is ¾”. For thin profile solid hardwood, 5/16″ is the standard. The planks are sawed in one of three ways, which affects the stability, and the price of the hardwood.

  1. Flat or Plain Sawed: by far the most commonly used cut. It contains more variations than the others.
  2. Quarter Sawed: cuts a log into quarters before it cuts the strips of wood to make hardwood flooring boards.
  3. Rift Sawed: cuts a log at a different angle than quarter sawed before it cuts the wood into hardwood flooring boards. Though it is more expensive than the other methods, it is also more stable, providing higher quality flooring.

Solid hardwood floor planks are made with a tongue and groove edge locking method which makes it easy to join the planks together to make a strong joint. One side of the board has a tongue and the other has a groove. The tongue interlocks with the groove to fit the boards together.

One of the advantages of solid construction is that most ¾” thick solid wood floors have about ¼” or 6 mm of wood above the tongue and groove meaning they can be sanded and refinished many times. If properly cared for, a solid hardwood floor can last for generations.

There are some potential disadvantages of solid hardwood. It cannot be installed below grade or over radiant heat. Most experts recommend not installing it over a concrete sub-floor.

Engineered or Stacked wood is bonded under heat and pressure. It is produced with three or more layers of HDF, MDF, with a layer of real hardwood as the surface layer. The additional base layers add structural strength to the product. This type of product is suitable in high-moisture areas or in areas of frequent temperature changes due to its “multiple-ply plank” manufacturing. Engineered hardwood is more resistant to both water and heat compared to solid wood. Engineered hardwood does not warp or cup during climatic changes and is a better choice for installation over radiant heat sources, damp basements, and at locations in rainy climates.

Engineered hardwood is made by gluing a real hardwood veneer to a core board made of either plywood or high density fiberboard. Because of this construction method, engineered hardwood is more dimensionally stable than solid hardwood. In other words it will not contract or expand as much due to changes in humidity or temperature.

Engineered hardwood has several advantages over solid hardwood:

  1. It can be installed on all grades, including below grade
  2. It can be installed over radiant heat
  3. It can be installed over a concrete sub-floor
  4. It can be floated

The number of plies used to create the plywood core may vary anywhere from 2 to 10, and while a 3 ply board is not going to be as stable as say a 5 ply board would be, this is not enough to be a deciding factor unless this flooring is going to be used over a radiant floor heating system. Generally speaking, the more plies in the plywood, the higher the price. A high density fiberboard core is more dimensionally stable than a plywood core.

There are three different ways of cutting the veneer for the engineered flooring that, along with thickness, has an impact on price. The three methods of cutting the veneer include:

  1. Dry solid-sawed: involves letting the wood dry out slowly with a low humidity level to keep moisture from inside the wood cells intact, reducing the risk of cupping. It is the most expensive type of engineered flooring, but looks and acts more like a solid.
  2. Rotary-peel: involves boiling the log for a certain amount of time at a certain temperature to prepare the wood. After the wood has been prepared, it is scraped from the log with a blade working from the outside in and then pressed flat. It typically has a plywood-like grain and can have issues with cupping and warping to try to revert to its original shape.
  3. Sliced-peel: involves boiling the log for a certain amount of time at a certain temperature to prepare the wood. After the wood has been prepared, it is sliced from the end and then pressed to create a veneer.

The thickness of the veneer ranges from 0.6 mm to 6 mm. The thicker the veneer, the more expensive the flooring is. For people who are planning to refinish the flooring at some point, it is important to consider the thickness because unlike a solid hardwood floor, the engineered type can only be sanded and refinished so many times. The thicker the veneer, the more times it can be sanded and refinished, however, it is still limited. Once installed, removing a vent to inspect the flooring from the side can provide an idea of the remaining thickness on the veneer.

One disadvantage of engineered floors is that they cannot be sanded & refinished if the wood floor has a veneer thickness less than 2mm; or if it is a hand scraped engineered floor, regardless of veneer thickness; however if the floor has a veneer thickness of 2mm or greater it can be refinished but is best left to a professional.

Engineered floor planks are made with either a traditional tongue and groove edge locking method or with a glue less click-lock edge method that requires no glue and allows the pieces to snap together to create a snug fit. This is the easiest do it yourself installation method.